The Rolex Daytona Gem-Set Charity Auction: Inside “The Four Seasons”
Four watches. Four seasons. One unusual moment for Rolex. On September 28, 2026, Phillips is scheduled to auction four unique gem-set Cosmograph Daytonas in London, with all proceeds benefiting two charities. Here is what is being offered, how earlier Daytona results provide context, and what owners should understand about gem-set Rolex values.
What the Rolex Daytona Gem-Set Charity Auction Actually Is
The Rolex Daytona gem-set charity auction, titled The Four Seasons, is a sale of four unique Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona watches through Phillips in London on Monday, September 28, 2026. Each season has its own watch and its own lot. Rolex says all proceeds will go to the Federer Foundation and Re:wild. The event forms part of its Perpetual Planet Initiative.
The central facts come directly from Rolex’s announcement and its official Four Seasons specification page. The watches combine natural-stone dials, contrasting stone counters and gemstone bezels. Spring and Summer use sapphires; Autumn introduces green tourmalines; Winter pairs platinum with a blue-to-fuchsia sapphire gradient.
That combination gives the story its appeal. These are not four dial-color variations of a standard retail model. Each watch has a distinct material palette, and Rolex describes all four as unique. The charity setting adds another dimension to the eventual result.
It also changes how the numbers should be read. An exceptional auction lot can command a premium for its story, documentation and sale context. A factory diamond Daytona already in a private collection still needs its own valuation. The distinction matters before the first bid is placed.
The Federer Foundation, established in 2003, supports early and foundational learning for children in Southern Africa and Switzerland. Re:wild, co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio with conservation scientists, works to protect and restore wild ecosystems. Rolex’s announcement connects both missions to its wider environmental and philanthropic initiative.
For collectors, the immediate questions concern the final catalogue, bidding arrangements and eventual results. For existing owners, the more useful question is simpler: what makes a gem-set Rolex valuable in an ordinary transaction?
Why This Sale Is Unusual for Rolex
Rolex watches appear at auction regularly. The Four Seasons is different because the manufacturer is organizing the offering of four unique pieces for charity. That should be distinguished from a collector selling a Rolex and donating some or all of the proceeds.
- The manufacture is directly involved. Rolex announced the watches and its partnership with Phillips.
- Uniqueness is explicit. The brand describes four unique watches, each built around a season.
- Each watch has a separate lot. Four sales can produce four different outcomes, rather than one price for the quartet.
The sale is being reported as a first for Rolex in this form. A broader claim that the company has never participated in any charitable watch transaction would require a more complete historical record. Likewise, direct involvement here does not mean Rolex has previously had no role in resale: its Certified Pre-Owned program is an obvious distinction.
Splitting the quartet also gives bidders a choice. A buyer may prefer Winter’s platinum construction or Spring’s purple-and-green palette. That preference can affect competition for an individual lot. It does not establish that four separate lots must raise more than one combined offering.
The official Rolex pages reviewed on September 10 do not state pre-sale estimates. This article does not treat reported private offers or proposed package prices as verified auction estimates. Confirm the final Phillips catalogue and sale terms before relying on a number.
There are several prices to keep separate: an estimate, a private asking price, a hammer price and the total including buyer’s premium. After the sale, the amount directed to charity should also be reported using the organizers’ own definition. Those distinctions keep an exciting result useful rather than misleading.
The Four Watches, Specification by Specification
All four use Rolex Calibre 4131, with approximately 72 hours of power reserve and Superlative Chronometer certification. Each has 36 trapeze-cut bezel stones, 11 gem-set hour markers and 54 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs and crown guard. The metal, dial stones and bezel colors change with the season.
Spring
Reported ref. 126599 SAVL- Case metal
- 18 ct white gold
- Dial
- Chrysoprase, with lepidolite counters
- Hour markers
- 8 baguette-cut and 3 square-cut purple sapphires in 18 ct white gold settings
- Bezel
- 36 trapeze-cut purple sapphires, approximately 5.57 ct
- Lugs and crown guard
- 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, approximately 0.86 ct
Summer
Reported ref. 126595 SARO- Case metal
- 18 ct Everose gold
- Dial
- Turquoise, with heart-of-ruby counters
- Hour markers
- 8 baguette-cut and 3 square-cut pink sapphires in 18 ct pink gold settings
- Bezel
- 36 trapeze-cut pink sapphires, approximately 4.32 ct
- Lugs and crown guard
- 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, approximately 0.86 ct
Autumn
Reported ref. 126598 TML- Case metal
- 18 ct yellow gold
- Dial
- Mookaite, with chrysoprase counters
- Hour markers
- 8 baguette-cut and 3 square-cut green tourmalines in 18 ct yellow gold settings
- Bezel
- 36 trapeze-cut green tourmalines, approximately 4.32 ct
- Lugs and crown guard
- 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, approximately 0.86 ct
Winter
Reported ref. 126596 SABV- Case metal
- 950 platinum
- Dial
- Blue opal, with lapis lazuli counters
- Hour markers
- 8 baguette-cut and 3 square-cut diamonds in 18 ct white gold settings
- Bezel
- 36 trapeze-cut sapphires in a blue-to-fuchsia gradient, approximately 5.57 ct
- Lugs and crown guard
- 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, approximately 0.86 ct
The reported reference codes shown above also appear in the official Rolex Newsroom image filenames. The public specification page labels the watches by season. Check the final Phillips lot descriptions before treating a filename or a trade reference as the complete catalogue identification.
The gemstone math: 404 stones, with one important qualification
The count is straightforward: 36 bezel stones + 11 hour-marker stones + 54 diamonds equals 101 individually set stones per watch, or 404 across the quartet. This calculation counts the listed set stones; it does not count the natural-stone dial and counter pieces as additional set gems.
Spring and Winter each have a stated bezel weight of approximately 5.57 carats, plus approximately 0.86 carats of lug and crown-guard diamonds. That makes 6.43 carats for those components. Summer and Autumn each total approximately 5.18 carats for the same components.
Those are not complete gemstone weights. Rolex does not give the hour-marker weights in the specifications reviewed here. Adding the bezel and case figures cannot establish a total for every stone in the watch.
Nor can carat weight establish resale value. Buyers also assess the complete watch, its factory configuration, stone matching, workmanship, condition and documentation. Two watches containing similar quantities of precious metal and stones can have very different markets.
Source: Rolex’s technical specifications for all four seasons.
What Could a Unique Gem-Set Daytona Fetch?
The outcome remains unknown. Earlier Daytona sales show that exceptional watches can attract exceptional bids, but they do not establish a reliable range for these four lots. The following results provide historical context.
| Watch | Sale | Reported result | Relevant distinction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daytona “Rainbow” ref. 16599 SAAEC White gold, circa 1994 | Phillips, Geneva November 2024 | CHF 5,505,000 | An exceptional early factory gem-set Daytona. Its age, rarity and historical position distinguish it from new production. |
| Daytona ref. 6265 “The Unicorn” Vintage white gold | Phillips, Geneva May 2018 | CHF 5,937,500 | A charity-related rarity benchmark, although the watch is not gem-set. |
| Daytona ref. 6270 Diamond bezel and pavé dial | Phillips, Geneva May 2023 | CHF 3,690,000 | Historical context for collectible factory jewelry Daytonas. |
| Paul Newman’s own Daytona ref. 6239 | Phillips, New York October 2017 | US$17,752,500 | An extraordinary ownership story. A distant comparison for a modern gem-set reference. |
The early Rainbow is the closest comparison in this group by category. It combines the Daytona name with an unusual factory gemstone configuration. The Four Seasons adds direct manufacturer involvement and a charitable purpose, but lacks the same vintage history. Those differences cannot be reduced to a dependable mathematical adjustment.
The Unicorn and Paul Newman results answer a different question. They show how strongly ownership history, scarcity and the circumstances of a sale can influence bidding. They do not isolate the value of philanthropy or establish a repeatable charity multiplier.
For the same reason, a result including buyer’s premium should not be compared casually with a low estimate. The two figures use different bases. A seller’s eventual net proceeds are another number again, after any applicable charges and agreed terms.
Use recent transactions for the same reference and configuration to assess an existing watch. Dealer listings can help describe the available supply and asking prices, but they are not proof of completed-sale values. A record-setting charity lot is context, not a guaranteed floor beneath your watch.
This is why the article avoids a blanket current-price band for every gem-set Daytona. A Rainbow, an Eye of the Tiger and a different factory diamond configuration need separate evidence. Their asking prices, achievable sale prices and dealer purchase offers should remain distinct.
The Daytona’s History With Charity Auctions
The manufacturer’s role makes The Four Seasons unusual, but charitable associations are already part of Daytona auction history. The distinction is who consigned the watch, what made it exceptional and how the proceeds were allocated.
- 2017Paul Newman’s own ref. 6239 sold for US$17,752,500 at Phillips New York. James Cox consigned the watch. A portion of the proceeds was directed toward charitable causes.
- 2018Ref. 6265 “The Unicorn” achieved CHF 5,937,500 at the Daytona Ultimatum sale. Collector John Goldberger directed the proceeds to Children Action.
- 2024The early Rainbow, ref. 16599 SAAEC, achieved CHF 5,505,000. This belongs in the valuation history; it was not one of the charity precedents above.
- 2026The Four Seasons is scheduled for September 28. Rolex has announced four lots benefiting the Federer Foundation and Re:wild. Results are not yet available.
It would be tempting to turn that sequence into a rule: combine a rare Daytona with a charity and expect a predictable premium. The examples cannot support that conclusion. They involve different watches, owners, eras, currencies and groups of bidders.
They also contain selection bias. Famous results receive sustained coverage precisely because they are exceptional. A handful of headline sales does not reveal how every charitable watch lot performs or what the same watch would have brought in a conventional sale.
Look at each lot separately. Record the hammer price, any buyer’s premium, the sale currency and the organizers’ confirmed charity total. Then distinguish the result of a unique fundraising event from evidence about ordinary gem-set Rolex transactions.
That approach preserves what makes the story interesting without treating a historic auction as a price list for current owners.
Four Layers to Consider When Valuing a Gem-Set Rolex
Carat weight alone cannot price a gem-set Rolex. Neither can the price of a standard Daytona with a rough allowance added for diamonds. A useful valuation considers the complete configuration, verifies what is original and matches the evidence to the proposed selling route.
Materials and condition
Identify the metal, stones and overall condition. Check for damage, missing stones, polishing and signs of alteration. Material content provides context, but it is not a guaranteed recoverable floor: removing stones or selling components can involve costs and destroy the value of the complete watch.
Comparable transactions for the exact configuration
Match the reference, generation, dial, bezel and bracelet. A factory pavé dial or gem-set bracelet can change the relevant comparison. Record whether each price is an asking price, auction result or completed private transaction, and whether fees are included.
Factory origin and originality
Establish which components Rolex made and whether they belong to the watch’s original configuration. Review the watch and its documentation together. Factory components fitted later, aftermarket setting and a fully original factory gem-set watch should not automatically receive the same valuation.
Documented provenance and scarcity
Consider verified ownership, production information, a notable collection and relevant sale history. A claim of uniqueness needs evidence. An uncommon configuration is not the same thing as a documented one-off, and a seller’s story is not a substitute for provenance.
Photographs and a reference number can start the conversation. They may reveal obvious condition issues or help identify a likely configuration. They cannot reliably establish stone quality, internal condition or originality by themselves.
A preliminary estimate should therefore state its assumptions. A final offer may depend on physical inspection and confirmation of the watch’s condition and components. That distinction helps both sides understand what the number means before a transaction proceeds.
Owners should also specify the purpose of the assessment. Insurance replacement value, a retail asking price, an auction expectation and an immediate purchase offer answer different questions. Comparing them without that context can make a fair offer appear inexplicably low or an ambitious listing appear like a completed sale.
Factory-Set Versus Aftermarket-Set Rolex Watches
The Four Seasons focuses attention on Rolex’s own gemstone work. That makes it especially important to distinguish a factory gem-set configuration from a standard watch customized by a third party.
An aftermarket jeweler may add stones to the bezel, dial, case or bracelet. The finished watch can be visually striking, but the work does not make it equivalent to an original factory gem-set reference. Buyers need to know what changed, who performed the work and whether the original components remain available.
Do not assume that the cost of adding diamonds will be recovered when you sell. Alterations can narrow the buyer pool, change service requirements and reduce originality. Their effect on value depends on the watch, the work and the buyer. A blanket claim that every modified Rolex loses the same amount would be just as misleading.
What a specialist assessment should examine
- Reference and configuration. Use reference information as a starting point. A suffix or the absence of one is not a universal authentication test.
- Setting and stone condition. Examine the cuts, matching, seating and workmanship. A neat setting alone does not prove Rolex origin.
- Case, bezel and bracelet. Look for replaced components, machining, damage and polishing, with findings appropriate to the particular reference.
- Documentation. Compare warranty information, purchase records and service history with the watch. Documents can support a conclusion but may not describe every later change.
- The dial. Establish whether it is original, a genuine replacement, refinished or modified, rather than deciding solely from its appearance.
A genuine Rolex component fitted later presents a different question from an aftermarket component. Both can differ from a watch’s original delivered configuration. That is why “factory” and “original” should not be used interchangeably without explaining what has been verified.
If you are unsure what you own, keep the watch as it is until it has been assessed. Retain invoices and service records. Tell the buyer about any known alterations, and ask for the valuation to identify how those alterations affect the offer.
The Le Watch Buyers Perspective
Editorial analysis · Gem-set Rolex valuationA unique watch offered by its manufacturer at a charity event belongs to a different comparison group from an existing Rainbow Daytona. Its result can illustrate the upper reaches of collector interest without automatically changing the value of a production reference.
The practical step for an owner is to establish a documented valuation for the watch they actually have. Track relevant completed transactions after the auction before concluding that attention has translated into higher prices.
If You Own a Gem-Set Rolex, Here’s What This Means
You do not need to bid on The Four Seasons to find the sale interesting. If you own a Rainbow Daytona, an Eye of the Tiger, a factory diamond-bezel Rolex or another gem-set configuration, the event is a useful reason to review your documentation and understand your options.
It is not, by itself, a reason to rush a sale. Greater visibility may bring inquiries, but there is no verified automatic increase in demand or completed-sale prices. Your exact watch, condition and selling timeline remain the relevant starting points.
Auction and a direct sale also serve different needs. An exceptional watch with strong documentation may merit a specialist auction assessment. Consignment terms, charges, the sale calendar, reserves and settlement arrangements vary. Ask for the expected net proceeds and timeline in writing.
A direct buyer can instead offer a specific purchase price after the necessary checks. Compare that offer with realistic net alternatives, rather than with another seller’s retail listing or a charity auction headline.
Before requesting an appraisal, gather photographs of the dial, bezel, case, bracelet and clasp. Add the reference number, service history and available box or papers. Note any damage, replacements or known modifications. You can use our Rolex serial-number guide for background, but a serial number alone does not authenticate a watch.
Exact Configuration
Begin with the reference, dial, bezel and bracelet. Those details define the relevant comparison.
Originality Review
Disclose known changes and provide records so the offer can reflect what is actually present.
Clear Offer Terms
Ask what is preliminary, what requires inspection and what net payment follows an accepted offer.
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Rolex Daytona Gem-Set Charity Auction: Common Questions
The watches, beneficiaries, price distinctions and practical implications for owners.
What is the Rolex Daytona gem-set charity auction?
Which charities benefit from the Four Seasons Daytona sale?
How much are the Four Seasons Daytonas expected to sell for?
What are the references of the four gem-set Daytonas?
Has Rolex ever auctioned its own watches for charity before?
Can the public bid on the Four Seasons Daytonas?
Will this auction increase the value of my gem-set Rolex?
How can I tell whether my Rolex is factory gem-set or aftermarket?
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More background: Watch Education hub
Primary sources: Rolex: The Four Seasons and technical specifications; Rolex Newsroom: announcement and press photographs. Historical auction results: Phillips. Auction arrangements and market conditions may change.
Le Watch Buyers is an independent watch buying service and is not affiliated with Rolex SA, Phillips, the Federer Foundation or Re:wild. Rolex and related product names are trademarks of their respective owner. Watch photography: © Rolex. Le Watch Buyers does not claim ownership of the press photographs. Press imagery is subject to the applicable Rolex Newsroom terms. Auction outcomes are not forecasts for other watches. Published September 10, 2026.